#CONCRETE BLOCK WALL INSTALL#

If the area has drainage problems, install a line along the outer edge of the form, providing a one-inch drop for every 20-feet of the drain line. Use 2x4 boards to build the frame where you will pour the footing, and hold the boards in place with wooden stakes driven into the ground every three inches. So, if you are using eight-inch blocks, then the footing should be and 16-inches wide in order to provide a four-inch rim on either side of the block. It should also be two times the width of the wall as well, with the wall placed in the center. To be safe, you should probably dig a couple of inches below the known frost level in your area. When you pour a footing, the base should always reach below the frost line. Both block barbecue grills and outdoor fireplaces require a large concrete pad, so keep this in mind. Step 2 - Pour the FootingĮvery concrete block wall should be laid on a secure footing of poured concrete, regardless of height or length. Special blocks are also available for almost any building requirement. Sash blocks are good for casing windows, and header blocks provide a space for wooden supports or other structures. When laying blocks for a doorway, make sure you use jamb joist blocks. Single and double corner units provide a smooth surface at the corner. Standard blocks are appropriate for most projects, with half-blocks with square or rounded corners usually installed at the end of a run. If you’re unsure of which type your job calls for, any home improvement sales associate should be able to help you select the correct ones.Įight-inch standard blocks are actually only 7 & 5/8-inches wide, which allows the mortar to expand while drying. These include two-core units, three-core units, steel sash units, wood sash (jamb) units, single bullnose units, capping units, header units, and return or corner angle units.

Various types of concrete blocks exist to meet your needs in whatever project you have in mind.

Concrete block wall